Foreword
A
quick glance at the map below reveals that there are a large number
of variant routes possible. This description covers just one of these
routes done over seven stages. The seven days included getting to and
from the track as far as Briançon.
Times
I
deliberately do not mention times, but
this
link has estimates.
All
of these were normal easy enough stages of 7-8
hours including breaks. On
this trip I did not make many
stops, perhaps 1-1½
hours
in total per day.
One or two days
may
have been a bit
longer and at least one was shorter. There
was always plenty of daylight left.
Usually
there is
just
one
main
climb
of around 1000-1200m per day.
 |
| This map was taken from the Cicerone website |
A
sketch route using this map
I did not follow the entire red route, nor did I use the GR451 approach or go into Italy.Sometimes I was on the GR58 “proper” and sometimes on one of the variants.I started at 22 following the red route past 23 (Furfande) to Agnel and 9 (Col Vieux).
From there I took the green dotted line to La Monta, then up to near G. From here to Abries by 15 rejoining the red route east of peak H.
From Abriès I followed the red route back to 22.
I did not follow the entire red route, nor did I use the GR451 approach or go into Italy.Sometimes I was on the GR58 “proper” and sometimes on one of the variants.I started at 22 following the red route past 23 (Furfande) to Agnel and 9 (Col Vieux).
From there I took the green dotted line to La Monta, then up to near G. From here to Abries by 15 rejoining the red route east of peak H.
From Abriès I followed the red route back to 22.
Day
1a
–
Saturday –
Getting to the
start
From
the Camping Iscles de Prelles I hitched a ride
to the famous (in cycling circles at least) Col d'Izoard,
stopping at
a bakery in Briançon on the way. There
is a good view in both directions from the Col, spoilt
only by a
rather ugly monument.
Even
more
interesting than
the view is
seeing cyclists arriving from the direction of Arvieux. They have
just climbed from 1600m to 2360m with some final gradients of 12%.
They
are all pretty happy to arrive. A
good description from
a cycling perspective can
be found here.
Having
taken some photos, calibrated
my altimeter
and set
my poles for
the trip it
was time to start. Or at least to walk to the real start a
further
2.6km down the road. Clearly a road favoured not
just by
motorbikes, of whom there were quite a number, but also by camper
vans who negotiated its many curves rather less elegantly, though it
must be admitted more quietly as befits their
generally more
genteel occupants. Forty
minutes
of
downhill later
I was at the trail head admiring the Broken Dessert.
Day
1b
–
Saturday
–
La
Casse
Déserte
to Refuge Furfande
One
of the advantages of this starting point is that it makes the first
day an easy one. At least you don't start with a big climb, that
comes later in the day.
The
path winds down the canyon to Bruinissard, then follows the valley
for a while. At lunchtime I rested on a small wooden bridge over a
stream. From there the climb starts in earnest. It was quite a hot
day, but the first part is in the shade of the forest. After a while
it opens out and for some of the time one follows a track. There were
three cyclists making their way up, scarcely moving above my walking
pace.
For
a while before the Col I scouted around for a possible campsite, but
came up with nothing suitable (some lovely spots but useless without
water) so continued up the track to the Col Furfande at 2500m. Once
again there were cars sitting at a pass. But a good view and only 15
mins down the track to the refuge.
No
problem camping behind the refuge, but one pays €3.70 for the
privilege. Lower down (another 30 minutes or so) there were places
one could camp for free, but they lack the views, which were very
fine in the setting sun. A few last evening whistles from the marmots
and it was time to eat and turn in. High on the hill to the east I
saw (with the aid of binoculars) 4 Bouquetin moving on the steep
grass. This would be the only ones I saw on the entire trip. Most of
the others have moved away because of the hunting season I was told.
There
were quite a few people staying in the refuge, but only one other
camper.
Day
2
–
Sunday
–
Refuge
Furfande to
Ceillac
This
was a day to pay a little more attention to navigation.
Day
3
–
Monday
–
Ceillac
to La Chapelle de Clausis
It
was just as well that I decided to do my shopping in Ceillac.
Day
4
–
Tuesday
–
La
Chapelle de Clausis
to
Lac
Egorgéou
A
wet and windy night and the rain continued steadily in the early
morning. I was more or less reconciled to spending the day inside
with the Brother's Karamazov. At least I still had 900 pages to go.
Day
5
–
Wednesday
–
Lac
Egorgéou to
Abriés
A
wild night. Strong winds and heavy rain. So plenty of noise in the
tent, but no water entered, which was impressive. It had calmed by
the morning but was still cloudy above and foggy below.
Day
6
–
Thursday
–
Abriés
to Col
de Péas
I
waited quite a while before the sun finally hit the camp site.
An
hour later was a much nice place to camp for free.
Day
7a–
Friday
–
Col
de Péas
to La
Casse
Déserte
A
sparkling morning after an eventful night.
Day
7b–
Friday
–
La
Casse
Déserte
to Briançon
Not
a big problem to hitch here despite little traffic and the only
stopping place being on the left of the road. The alternative is
2.6km uphill to the Col d'Izoard once again and I didn't fancy
walking on the road after a week on nice trails.
On
the way down from the Col we saw a couple of guys descending on
skateboards which was quite impressive. Twenty minutes later I was in
Briançon and ready to face the giant supermarket. It is thus that
one gets back to the “real” world!
Note:
Day 1 was the 4th September and day 7 was the
10th September.
